In aromatherapy, blood orange is considered uplifting, stimulating and anti-depressant. Cartier Dlices de Cartier Yardley English Lavender. Heres the science bit: 1,3-Benzodioxole-5-carbaldehyde, piperonyl aldehyde, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzaldehyde and piperonal are all names for heliotropin. (You might better know it as the Seville orange tree.) A sack of potatoes. The flowers themselves are really mean with their oil, though, and synthetics are more often used to recreate lily of the valleys magic: Lilial, Lyral and hydroxycitronellal are among them. Guerlain Idylle Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin Lady Gaga Fame A fragrance without roses is almost as unthinkable as a love affair without kisses. Andrea Maack Dark The poisonous, hallucinogenic black berries are what were most familiar with (and warned about, as kids). If someone asks a perfumer what balsamic means, wed hand them a pot of tolu. Caron Farnesiana Leather and perfumery go way back together, meanwhile. Unlike jasmine and rose, usually synthetically reproduced. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. Guerlain LAbeille de Guerlain 19 Poudr The plant valiantly grows in mountain areas above 3,500 metres, in countries like India, Tibet, Bhutan and Sikkim. It also cured snakebite, increased fertility and was a cornerstone of Four Thieves Vinegar, a blend of herbs alleged to ward off the plague. Depending on the perfumers wish, it can add a bitter allure or a creamy sweetness. "The fragrance is an orange floral that is tart, sweet, uplifting, and aromatic. (And weve adopted it ourselves.) An annual-flowering member of the borage family, also known as cherry pie flower, youll often find Heliotropium arborescens on sale in nurseries and garden centres for summer bedding (and you can create a wonderfully scented display with the plants, which butterflies will also love). is a member of the olive family.). Serge Lutens Tubreuse Criminelle, Mimosa. Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl Figs become an incredibly fashionable fragrance note for both men and women, lately, with its complex mix of bitter green and milky-sweet elements, conjuring up languid lunches in the shade of fig trees in hot, sunny places. (Though it can help to accent other herbal elements of a composition. Dolce & Gabbana The One Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh Roses are said to feature in at least 75% of modern feminine fragrances, and at least 10% of all mens perfumes. Jovoy Paris Bois ), and you might get whispers of a floral note, with fruity undertones somewhere mid-way between a rose and a nectarine. Geraniol Common in Happily for civet cats, most of the civet now used is synthetically recreated, for ethical reasons (the cats are kept in cages and stressed, in order to produce the secretion) although we have heard that some small perfumers still secretly source the real thing, a practise we absolutely cant condone. Nymphea odorata is the scented variety, and the one were interested in for fragrant purposes though other types have a use in traditional herbal medicine: for hair loss, skin diseases, headache and palpitations. Boucheron Boucheron Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta Crabtree & Evelyn Gardenia And its still a key ingredient in many sensual and iconic Ambre perfumes today, Agent Provocateur Eau Provocateur Britney Spears Believe The roots of this plant also known as horse-heal (and officially Inula helenium) can be distilled to produce an essential oil, with a minty, violet-like scent. Marc Jacobs Blush. Cartier Eau de Cartier Extrme Elie Saab Le Parfum With its hints of plum and peach, and a touch of lush green, mangos often to be found alongside floral notes in the fruity-floral compositions which have become so popular in recent years. Caron Muguet de Bonheur Neroli is a citrus oil distilled from the blossoms of either the sweet or bitter orange tree. Diane von Furstenberg Sunny Diane Freesia notes contain a certain amount of linalool, which is a known sensitiser (and listed on perfume packaging as a caution to the sensitive). The jazz chanteuse Billie Holliday would tuck a gardenia blossom behind her ear before performing. Yellow as a sunset over the Tanneron Massif, after a long winter, mimosa is the first flower opening the doors to spring in the south of France," says Jean-Marc Chaillan. Not only are roses the most romantic of flowers to look at: theyre an absolute cornerstone of perfumery the most important flower of all, from the point of view of a nose: sometimes powdery, sometimes woody, musky, myrrh-y, clove-like, sometimes fruity, or just blowsily feminine but always, intensely romantic. We love this quote about freesias that we first found on the perfume website Fragrantica, meanwhile. Este Lauder Alliage And - we suspect is used to give an aura of magic, dark mystery and allure to perfume, rather than for the perfume itself. ChloEau de Parfum Osmanthus also works beautifully in leathery, suede-like scents, as well as florals. Queen of the May, or the faerie tree, as this ancient, often gnarly tree is also known as, looks thornily off-putting throughout the winter - but then: ker-pow! Amazingly, from those fragile-looking leaves comes a sweet, spicy, smoky, cedar-y scent so powerful it has to be handled with care: patchouli is the most powerful of any plant-derived essence. FragonardJust un Baiser Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. "Muguet is a wildflower growing in the undergrowth, and its scent cant be captured naturally despite its sublime power," says perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier. "I love this ingredient because it takes me to the beach. Jasmine and rose are the two foundation stones of perfumery. Dont ask me why but it seems to fix itperfectly and it calms the hyperactive lavender. Diesel Loverdose Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. It can smell aromatic or woody, a little dry, earthy and spicy. Atelier Cologne Ambre Nu Diptyque Opne The first works perfectly in more exotic, Ambre blends making for something thats almost skin-like, or suede-soft - while the aromatic green cardamom adds brightness mostly to colognes and mens scents. The Different Company Osmanthus. One fine day, in perfumery heaven, we will all smell and enjoy cinnamon in heavy doses: Until then, we have to life with the regulations that we have', Dior Dioressence Guerlain Shalimar Evody Fleur dOranger It gets its name from the Italian word amaro (for bitter) - even though the legendary alcoholic drink (lugged back home from many a Duty Free) is actually sweet and almond-y. Rich and heady, tiar is also used to create monoi oil (familiar from many suntanning products), by macerating the flowers in coconut oil. Prada LEau Ambre. Theres nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats for sure. LArtisan Parfumer Poivre Piquant Tiar flowers are related to gardenias: luscious white florals which scent the breeze of Tahiti, worn tucked behind the ear or as garlands. Bracing, uplifting and almost nose-tinglingly spicy, ginger pairs beautifully with vanilla, woody notes and citrus, as well as white flowers like jasmine and neroli. Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia In modern day perfumery the scent of apricot is re-created synthetically, most often for a soft, almost fuzzy fruitiness. Amouage Interlude. Spicy, sweet, sharp: this garden spice which (so legend has it) will protect from theft and stop a lover straying adds an aromatic twist to perfumery, working well across a wide range of fragrance families including Ambres, florientals and fougres. Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. Miller Harris Terre de Bois. Annick Goutal le Mimosa (Today, a synthetic coumarin is widely used.) Paco Rabanne Lady Million In nature, daisies have a subtle, herbaceous green scent. Take C7 or heptanal, naturally occurring in clary sage, with its herby-green odour. As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. Angels trumpet, or brugmansia) have been prized as sacred in many cultures. How cool is that? Givenchy Amarige Youre most likely to encounter wheat in a gourmand (edible) or Ambre fragrance though sometimes, used sparingly, its used as a modifier: an ingredient added to make something smell truly unique, rather than another me-too scent. In ancient Arabic perfumery, basil was known as the king of the fragrant plants. Dior Les Crations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Burberry Sport for Women "Used in several classical fragrances (like Chanel N5 or Jean Patou Joy), it is also experienced in luxe, modern fragrances. Cranberries and blackberries have similar aroma chemicals, but mostly, perfumers turn to one of two synthetics to recreate raspberry-ness: frambonine or raspberry ketone (which can also be used as a raspberry flavouring). During the Roman Empire, huge quantities of frankincense made their way to Rome from Arabia. Giorgio Armani Sensi And who can resist the smell, either: soft, sweet and violet-like, and a touch fruity? The flowering Vaccinum myrtillus shrub that gives us blueberries is native to north America, but now grown around the world: its nutritious berries arent just delish, theyre packed with health-boosting antioxidants. Giorgio Armani Sensi LOccitane de ProvenceCitrus Verbena Intense Thebrightness and sparkling fuzziness of citrus, the damp woody, earthybrown vetiver and the sharpness of pepper fit like Coke, fries andburger. Theyre then steam-distilled to produce a gloopy, oily yellow compound, known in the business as iris butter. That doesnt detract, though, from camellias soft, voluptuous beauty. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio It gets its name from the Spanish word vaina (meaning sheath or pod, and translates simply as little pod. Thierry Mugler Angel If youve ever walked in an evergreen forest, cedar will transport you back there, too. jasmine is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world. There are thought to be over 20,000 different orchids altogether. Theyre both from the small white flowers that blossom on the bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantia) - which is much more fragrant than the orange tree which produces the fruit for eating. Sweet orange oil itself is harvested by cold-pressing the fresh of this fruit which turns out to be a hybrid between the mandarin and the pomelo, which only came into existence in Europe and China in the 11th Century. The smell is to attract the type of insect that pollinates the plant: some clearly get off on pretty smells, others on stinkers.). Chanel Coco Mademoiselle They also feature in Houbigants Quelques Fleurs (created 1912) and Lanvins Arpge. Certainly as elegant as a traditional lily, but with a more see-through and yes, watery quality. This member of the citrus family is native to south Asia and has long been cultivated in Japan, Taiwan and the Philippines, too. Jasmine gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it. Ralph Lauren Lauren Violets were Napoleons favourite flowers. It reminds people who know it of the Kir Royal, a celebratory cocktail blending cassis liqueur with champagne," says Benaim. Its more romantic French name is mousse de chne, but this tight-curled plant botanical name Evernia prunastri - is actually a lichen which grows on oaks throughout Europe and North Africa, only flourishing in unpolluted air. In India, meanwhile, camphor lends its pungency to cooking. Boadicea the Victorious Majestic Floral Street Neon Rose Diptyque LEau Trois Through history, peony was known for its medicinal powers, and in Traditional Chinese Medicine its still used to treat night sweats, injuries and stomach pains. Dior Miss Dior The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). Goutal Rose Pompon It isnt just the fruit thats used: apple blossom gives a soft, floral air to fragrances and lately, theres been a trend to using something called an apple tree note: in fact, a synthetic, fantasy ingredient which delivers a fruity-woodiness. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, ReadThe Perfume Candy Boy's Guide to Vanilla,here. Heres the non-scientific bit: this synthetic brilliantly copies the powdery, almondy or vanilla-y nuanaces of the beautiful purple, butterfly-magnet heliotrope flower (read about that here). Aldehydes are actually a family of ingredients: they can be metallic, starchy, citrusy, waxy. (Not to be confused with Star anise although the key component of the essential oil, anethole, is actually found in both.). Carolina Herrera 212 Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Essential. GoutalQuel Amour Amazingly, this grey-leafed toughie gives off a lovely, almost straw-like sweet scent, with hints of honey, tea, rose and chamomile - giving a flowery sweetness to perfumes, Goutal ParisSables Actually, the discovery of these synthetics by two German chemists, Tiemann and Krger was a breakthrough moment in perfumery, changing the face of modern perfumery. But we do know that the Arabs brought this evergreen tree to Europe in around the 8th Century; lemon later made its way to America through seeds carried on Christopher Columbuss ship, in 1493. Mandarinworks nicely as long as you dont mind its lack of commitment'. Of course well never know someone, somewhere along the way, got the idea that it would be a good idea to try this potent ingredient out in a perfume: in its raw state, musk oil smells well, a bit like poo And yet, and yet at the same time, strangely intriguing A well-known German fragrance chemist, Phliip Kraft, brilliantly captures musks love-it-hate-it complexity. Yves Saint LaurentParisienne, As you might imagine, a perfume ingredient extracted from one of our sturdiest trees adds a bit of heft to a scented creation: dry, woody, grounding. Because violet petals are really reluctant to give up their scent naturally. Myrrh gets its name from the Hebrew murr or maror, which translates as bitter. A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) freesia. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Este Lauder Youth Dew Those same roots we love to spice up our food with rhizomes, to use the perfume worlds word for them can be steam-distilled to produce this useful scented oil. Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. "Jasmine notes are powerful, green fruity facets reminiscent of honeysuckle. Its so powerful, though, that only a touch is needed and perfumers must proceed with caution: the scent in a closed room can be overwhelming. ), while others describe it as creamy, musky or labdanum-like. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture Fields of flax are heart-stoppingly maybe even car-stoppingly beautiful, with pale blue flowers wafting in the breeze. ', Bulgari Jasmin Noir "Vetiver is proof that upcycling can give amazing products," says perfumer Claire Liegent. Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. When hawthorn blooms, you know springs here. (Latin name: Citrus junos.) Donna Karan Black Cashmere In the past few years, fragrance fashion has looked to the Middle East for inspiration and catered to perfume-lovers there who often own as many as 170 perfumes. In perfume, it features as a fantasy note, to conjure up mystery and danger. But its easy to see (or rather, smell) why white chocolate could add an almost edibly delicious creaminess to a fragrance. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Jo Malone London Grapefruit Its light and flighty though, so it works as a top note then flits off, leaving an impression but not hanging around to be judged. Orange blossom is extracted from the flower through the use of solvents. 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